Toxins in Hair Dyes and the Safest Alternatives That Work
Up to 75% of women in the US dye there hair (full disclosure me included) … Have you given thought into what is in your hair dye?
Most doctors recommend not dying your hair during at least the first trimester of pregnancy: do you know why?
First of all its important to be clear: not all hair dyes and coloring techniques are created equal.
3 types of hair dyes available:
TEMPORARY DYES:
stay on the surface of the hair
doesn’t penetrate the hair shaft
Last +/-1–2 washes.
SEMI-PERMANENT DYES
- Can partially penetrate into the hair shaft.
Last 5-10 washings.
Dyes used for these can be pure vegetable dyes, such as henna, or chemical dyes.
PERMANENT DYES
These dyes penetrate deep into the hair shaft, creating a chemical change in the hair shaft.
Last until the hair is cut off.
Permanent hair dyes in the US are usually coal tar dyes.
Darker hair dyes tend to use more of these coloring agents.
Generally, permanent hair dyes contain harsher/more harmful chemicals and need longer processing times, allowing more time for your scalp to absorb and inhalation of fumes to take place
When we dye our hair, we are exposed to the ingredients in hair dye via inhalation or scalp absorption during processing
So: how bad are the chemicals used in permanent hair dyes?
According to the American Cancer Society, hair dyes can contain thousands of different chemicals. The FDA is in charge of ‘regulating’ hair dyes (and all cosmetics) in the US but in doing so they don’t actually approve each ingredient used before the hair dyes goes on the market. Essentially, manufacturers use any ingredient they desire, no matter how toxic- and sometimes don’t have to disclose the ingredients used.
Store bought dyes have to list their ingredients, however “For Professional Use Only” dyes are not required to list their ingredients.
This makes it hard to really know what you are being exposed to,.
COMMON CHEMICALS FOUND IN PERMANENT HAIR DYES:
Ammonia:
Found in: permanent hair color to open the cuticle of the hair and allow the hair dye to be deposited within the hair.
Concern: According to the CDC, when inhaled, it is an eye, nose, and throat irritant and can lead to breathing difficulty, wheezing, or chest pain. Suspected endocrine disruptor.
Ethanol amines:
Found in: some ammonia-free permanent hair colors to open the cuticle and allow the dye to be deposited inside.
Concern: According to Safe cosmetics.org, “When ethanol amines are used in the same product as certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form nitrosamines. Nitrosamines are known carcinogens. Can also be contaminated with diethanolamine (DEA), linked with cancer in lab animals
P-phenylenediamin (PPD):
Found in: A common coal tar dye (derived from petroleum) used as a coloring agent.
Concern: linked to birth defects, skin irritation, liver and blood toxicity, and allergic reactions. Restricted in the EU, in the US do not need FDA approval and can be used in hair colors. The EPA classifies PPD as a known human respiratory toxicant.
Toluene:
Found in: PPD free products
Concern: neurotoxin, with long-term exposure links to birth defects, pregnancy loss and a major allergen
Resorcinol:
Concern: Endocrine disrupting chemical, can lead to developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune effects.
Fragrance:
Found in: almost all hair dyes to mask chemical smells
Concern: Can be made of dozens of different chemicals. Most synthetic fragrances have endocrine disrupting abilities.
Formaldehyde:
Concern: A known carcinogen, linked to cancer and fetal damage in utero.
“How much of these chemicals are absorbed by you?” and “How much could make its way to your baby?” is not really known….
Ultimately each person will determine their comfort level, which might take into consideration: the type of dye used, frequency of use, and personal health history.
You might want to consider taking extra caution if:
you are pregnant: pregnancy and fetal development is a “window of vulnerability,” a period when we are most susceptible to toxins. Because of our susceptibility, I recommend being extra cautious. Try to reduce your exposure to all environmental chemicals during pregnancy… including hair dyes and particularly permanent dyes
You have a history of , or strong family history of, breast cancer : One study of over 25,000 women found that the use of hair dye was associated with increased breast cancer incidence.
You have certain autoimmune disease
IF YOU CAN’T OR JUST DONT WANT TO AVOID IT, HERE ARE SOME GENERAL GUIDELINES DYING YOUR HAIR DURING PREGNANCY (or just to reduce chemical exposure) :
Wait until the second or third trimester to dye your hair. The majority of fetal development has formed by the third trimester.
Avoid permanent hair color and opt for temporary or semi-permanent dyes. If you must use a hair dye, look for formulas that are made using natural herbal extracts and are free of p-phenylenediamin (PPD), ammonia or parabens. See below for our natural hair color brand recommendations.
If possible opt for techniques where the hair dye is not applied directly to the scalp and is less likely to be absorbed by your body. Examples include: highlights, balayage, low lights etc.
Always have hair dye applied in a very well ventilated room.
If applying the dye at home, always follow safety recommendations like wearing gloves when applying the hair dye, and not leaving hair dye on longer than needed.
Safer Dyes
They exist- just arent as main stream as we would like.
Hairprint:
pros:
Its not a hair dye, instead it mimics the protein that gives hair its (brown) color in the first place and then it restores your former hair color.
Made of 8 food grade ingredients
Made Safe Certified
cons:
Takes 2-3 hours to apply (there are salons in LA, San Francisco and NYC that offer this service and the company is hoping to expand to more hair dressers!
Only available for brown and black hair.
Requires a a seven-day cleansing period prior to applications where you should not use any product except their chelating shampoo
PRo:
Unlike some hennas, does not contain PPD
Organic dyes are tested for heavy metals (important particularly fr HENNA)
Made Safe Certified
Cons
Takes about 2 hours to apply
hard to find
pro:
Composed of 92% natural-origin ingredients and pure pigments, and without oxidants, PPD and ammonia.
Covers greys by surrounding the hair; then washes out evenly over shampoos
cons:
It does contain: Parfum (Fragrance), Phenoxyethanol and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (both allergens)
Temporary Color Gel last a few shampoos